This warm and inviting nook in the heart of Soho manages to be both authentically and admirably cliché-free apart from the giant hams dangling from the ceiling. Unusual flavours, as at Beagle's high-end sibling, are a signature. Corn on the cob was rubbed with flowery-scented meadowsweet, which permeated the butter. Hispi cabbage had an unusual taste that turned out to be clover. Harvester this is not.

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